Cooks County, a new restaurant on Beverly Boulevard and just a couple of miles from Larchmont, is simply divine. The space is warm, the service inviting and the food, absolutely delicious. The bustle from the open kitchen adds to a lively vibe that is just at the right volume.
Head Chef, Daniel Mattern, has played in the sandbox with all of the big boys (and girls). He trained under Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton at Campanile and Suzanne Goin at Lucques and AOC. His latest stints as Head Chef were at Axe and AMMO. Paired with pastry chef, Roxana Jullapat also from AMMO, this is a gifted and experienced squad that cannot be beat.
There is a great list of beers to choose from that range from Allagash Curieux from Portland, Maine (my fave) to St. Peter’s Organic English Ale. It was also great to see so many wonderful wines available by the glass. The dinner menu changes daily and offers a variety of taste sensations for any mood. Cooks County prides itself on its relationships with local farmers and ranchers and the selection of dishes are proof positive that they are getting the cream of the crop of Southern California.
The Cast Iron Bread with farmhouse butter was ordered immediately and came fresh to the table. I am a sucker for chicken liver and the Chicken Liver Crostini, was sensational. Rich and creamy, spread over grilled bread and topped with pickled persimmons. Absolutely luscious. The Roasted Beet Salad was a refreshing follow up. The beets were “earthy sweet”, complemented by peppery arugula and the “bite” of fennel.
The Poor Man’s beef tenderloin was full of flavor. Super pink and buttery soft. I savored every bite. The Pork Loin, moist and juicy, felt like a cozy farmhouse meal sided with bacon, grilled peppers and long cooked greens.
Roxana’s desserts are a must and there wasn’t one thing on the dessert menu that I didn’t want. All sinful and scrumptious, screaming of fall. Everything is made in house including the ice creams. The Stout Ice Cream is still calling my name.
Cooks County was delightful, fun and my every bite memorable.
Alison Dinerstein is a resident of Windsor Square, a NY JETS fan and a professional foodie. She is the co-founder of Artisan Kitchen. You may email Alison at firstname.lastname@example.org or follow her on twitter: @adinerstein.